"I asked my soul: What is Delhi?/ She replied: The world is the body and Delhi its life."
This one is attributed to Ghalib- have never been able to find the original words in Hindustani, though.
Well, a visit was long due- to the erstwhile Shahjahanabad. They say, when an epidemic broke out in the 1700s, the local hakims advised the people to eat loads of herbs and chillies as a precaution. Thus was born "Chaat"- here- in Shahjahanabad.
The most prominent area within this place is a place ShahJahan's daughter (Jahan Ara) designed- its called Chandni Chowk. Well, technically speaking, I guess, the road from Lahori gate to Masjid Fatehpuri is called that. Some say, its a reference to the junction which was once adorned by a beautiful pool that reflected the moonlight.
Well, been to this place plenty of times. Today, however, was a tribute to the food of Dilli 6. Thanks to Ajesh who suggested this visit.
We stepped out of the chandni chowk metro station and headed straight to Nai Sarak. Well, years back, while I was still in college, visited this road often- for academic books (that my friends were interested in) and some arbit chaat (that I was interested in). This was my first visit though, structured visit, meant only for food- there was no pressure on helping my friends find the right bookshops.
As usual, such places can get me on to the flash-back mode easily. I walked along with Ajesh into nai sarak, toggling between my past and present, the din providing the most apt background score. There, outside the saree shop, stood a cyclist selling malaai makkhan. "Ye kya hai", I'd asked Juhi who seemed a veteran at relishing that dish. "Tu khaake dekh, tere ko achcha lagega", she'd said. Today there was no cyclist there- just the crowd and the din and Ajesh and me making our ways through.
And btw, I loved malaai makkhan.
We walked ahead, and there was the tikki shop of Katra Mahesh- there was a rush there- we decided this one had to be authentic- tried the aloo tikki- mast tha...the chutni was much tangier than what one would typically find in Delhi...but we seemed to agree that woh purani-dilli-waala-wow was missing in the tikki.
As we walked ahead, further into nai sarak, as the saree shops gave way to book shops, my past walked alongside, tugging at my heart more strongly than ever- that shop which sold magazines and books which were as old as the times when, hmm...probably Sadhna's hairstyle and bell bottoms were the most fashionable things in town...
I remember Buzz going to the shopkeeper and asking "compilers ki book hai kya?" and the shopkeeper giving that kahaan-kahaan-se-aa-jaate-hain look. And then he said, "haan sab hain". Buzz gave him the nikal-jaa-mere-aage-se look.
I guess the shopkeeper probably thought Buzz was asking "kum paise ki book hai kya".
Well, this time there was no Buzz and I dont even remember what compilers were. Ajesh asked the same shopkeeper, "George Orwell ki 1984 hai kya?". He said "na".
I guess, had Ajesh asked, "1984 ki filmfare issues hain kya", he may have said "haan".
As we moved on, I was searching for one answer...woh patli waali gali kahaan hai...the gali is so patli that only 1 person can go in through at a time between the two buildings..and that too...at an angle of ..hmm... 45 degrees...slight tilt ke saath...and uske baad there would be more book shops...
I was unable to locate the gali, but, that did not prevent my memory from showing me glimpses, naa, poore scenes from the past...walking in...with Buzz and Pankoo, even one Hugdeep sassurjee...with a thrill...they, at the prospect of finding the books on compilers and more...and me at the prospect of going throught that thrilling gali.
I asked a rickshaw-wala about the gali and he said, 50 dukaan pehle chhod aaye aap. Well, the chaats were waiting for us. So we moved ahead.
The next stop was Shyam sweets and its located where nai sarak intersects chawri bazaar. The kachoris there were yummmm.. now dilli 6 was talking ;-)
The samosas (with gobhi fillings and mutter fillings) were awesome too... Orgasmic burps and satisfied smiles later, we confessed that this visit was definitely worth it :-)
Our next stop was Jugal Kishor Ramji Lal's chaat shop where we had Kuliye. 15 years in Delhi and this was the first time I was having this dish- shame on me who prides on being a foodie. Kuliye bante kaise hain? Take 1 aloo, 1 shakargandi, 1 kela, 1 saeb, 1 amrood, 1 tamatar...shave off their tops...when they are lidless, scoop off the interiors...stuff the vacant spaces with chickpea, lightly fried...add the masala and the lemon juice...and the imli chatni...replace the lid...serve...awesome...mast...and heavy...
The guy who made it said "medium masala lagaaya hai"...well well well...was it spicy...huffffff...mazaa aagaya...
Out next stop "Daulat ki chaat" outside the chawri bazaar metro chowk... hmmm...the yummy malaai makkhan brought back very fond memories of some once-very-close friends...Ajesh commented at the dish..."and to think ki yeh milk froth se banta hai"...some small chat with the seller and he-giving-us-his-visiting-card later, we proceeded toward kake-di-hatti...
As we walked through the crowds in gali lohe wali in Ballimaran, I realised how my body is getting old. I was feeling full...maybe a more-than-stomachful of a heavy late luch, just a couple of hours back was the reason...but still...
We walked past Chaina Ram near Masjid Fatehpuri...marvelled at the namkeen shops nearby and the variety and the quantum of stuff they sold...stood at the chowk there near khari baoli to recoup ourselves... and then strode into Kake-di-hatti for an aloo-pyaaz naan and kadaai paneer...I was reluctant...Ajesh was interested... khaaya humne wahaan bhi...I was glad I could eat atleast some portion of it...
More orgasmic burps later (this time, it was almost like main-machine-thode-hee-hun wala feel)...we walked to Pt. Ved Prakash's lemon corner for the lemon banta...as we placed the glases back, smiled and said "dhanyawaad" to panditjee...he smiled back warmly, folded his hands and said thanks :-) Ajesh echoed my feelings on that one, somehow the best banta I ever had!!!!
We then walked...slowly...tired, but with a sense of purpose to Hauz Qazi to have the dessert for the evening...Bade Mian's kheer... and wow...that was heaven...just awesome...too bad.. I could not finish my plate...was too full for that...
As we stepped out of the shop...the namaz had just started in the masjid...As we walked back to the metro station, couldn't help but feel that this was the perfect end to an awesome evening.....As we heard the sounds of "Allah-hu-Akbar"...I was just thanking God for having created such a beautiful city and such a beautiful place within the city and for letting me experience this creation of his...
This entry is dedicated to my friend Ajesh- one of the most gentle people I've ever met...somebody who can enjoy life so subtly...somebody who can make the time you spend with him so wonderful...
And to my friends, who made the flash-backs look so-so beautiful.
And to the wonderful people like bade mian who make Dilli 6 such a delight.
And to Delhi Metro which has made the place a lot more accessible than it ever was :-)
Dilli 6 rocks...
